Day Four (Tuesday)
Spontaneity?….. Not – This day was supposed to be “spontaneity day”. We
had planned most of the cruise excursions well in advance and we saved this day
out for us to decide something to do “at the last minute”. Well, about a week before the cruise, I
started to worry about the shore excursions we wanted getting booked up. After talking with everyone in our group, we
agreed that we should go ahead a book at tour, in advance, to see the Mayan
Ruins at Chacchoben – so much for spontaneity. Frank had heard or read
something about a tour guide that grew up in the area (the guide’s father owned
the land and discovered the site). I
found this guy on the internet and made a reservation with “The Native
Choice”. For Cindy and I this was our
first time seeing some Mayan Ruins and so we were particularly excited. Amanda had done some research for us before
the trip and recommended this site (a close second to seeing Tulum).
Arrival – After breakfast at the Market Café (buffet), and at the
appointed time, we stood in long lines to leave the ship. We walked down a long pier (alongside the
Disney Cruise ship, Fantasy (which seemed huge compared to ours) towards the
cruise-line-created-port of Costa Maya.
We walked past numerous shops into the outskirts of Mahahuel, a small
fishing village. We were directed into an
area filled with people waiting for their tour with “The Native Choice”. As van after van filled with people and tour
guides, my hopes of having an intimate tour with someone who really knew the
area were quickly diminishing. We piled
into a van with six other people and with our driver and the tour guide. Our guide spoke very good English and right
at the start gave us some wonderful insights into modern day Mayan people and
culture. About half way into the trip we
realized that we got the guide we had wanted.
Ivan was part owner of the tour guide company, very well educated, and
capable of speaking several different languages. His stories and discussions about the modern
day Maya and the ancient Mayan people were quite captivating.
Chacchoben – It took us around 45 minutes on a pretty decent road to
get to the site. Just before you enter
the parking area you can see one of the temples sticking up over the jungle
canopy. I could write pages about what
we saw and learned but a couple of things really stick out: 1) the Mayan
calendar was complex in a number of ways and was key to tying science,
agriculture and religion together; 2) The 52 year cycle in this calendar system
spawned a regular rebuilding spree (reflected in the temple construction).
+Chacchoben.JPG)
More on our guide – Our guide
was maybe in his late thirties. His
father was Mayan and his mother a “matiste” (part mayan, part European). He is the youngest of seven children and his
family lived quite a ways away from the local village. He started “primary school” at age 7 – which
is all that was offered in the area - and then his mother sent him to boarding
school which as he put it was a “mixed blessing”. A curse since he had to be away from his
family for so many years and yet a blessing because it allowed him to go to
college and get degrees in accounting and business. His college expenses were paid for by the
Nestle company. They expected him to
work for them after he obtained his degree – which he did for three years – but
he really just wanted to go “home”. He spent part of his time talking to us
about some pretty deep philosophical topics and the Mayan people: satellite TV
and happiness, satellite TV and their view of outsiders, the “high” crime rate
and chickens. Too many to recall or tell
but all so insightful. Towards the end
of our tour, he stopped along the trail and picked up a sherd – a broken piece
of pottery. He explained how valuable an
intact pot or plate is on the black market – hundreds of thousands of
dollars. He then related a story of how
his mother used one such plate (not knowing its value) as a platter to hold
feed for the chickens.
Shopping – Cindy purchased a clay Costa Maya Fish tree ornament in the
Cost Maya tourist shop area.
Back On Board – We returned to the ship and ate at the Aqua restaurant
where some of our most favorite servers Eugene and Raluca took great care of
us. Frank would regularly meet up in the
dark halls of the ship with his “supplier”, Curly, for regular Pepsi
fixes. And somehow, Carol-Lynn would
always end up with a drink too. After dinner
we took in a show – the Second City comedy act.
Although this group claims a rich and glorious heritage and past the
current players left quite a bit to be desired.
Frank really enjoyed the inflatable woman routine.