What I Did For Summer Vacation (in February) #4

Day Four (Tuesday)

Spontaneity?….. Not – This day was supposed to be “spontaneity day”. We had planned most of the cruise excursions well in advance and we saved this day out for us to decide something to do “at the last minute”.  Well, about a week before the cruise, I started to worry about the shore excursions we wanted getting booked up.  After talking with everyone in our group, we agreed that we should go ahead a book at tour, in advance, to see the Mayan Ruins at Chacchoben – so much for spontaneity. Frank had heard or read something about a tour guide that grew up in the area (the guide’s father owned the land and discovered the site).  I found this guy on the internet and made a reservation with “The Native Choice”.  For Cindy and I this was our first time seeing some Mayan Ruins and so we were particularly excited.  Amanda had done some research for us before the trip and recommended this site (a close second to seeing Tulum).

Arrival – After breakfast at the Market Café (buffet), and at the appointed time, we stood in long lines to leave the ship.  We walked down a long pier (alongside the Disney Cruise ship, Fantasy (which seemed huge compared to ours) towards the cruise-line-created-port of Costa Maya.  We walked past numerous shops into the outskirts of Mahahuel, a small fishing village.  We were directed into an area filled with people waiting for their tour with “The Native Choice”.  As van after van filled with people and tour guides, my hopes of having an intimate tour with someone who really knew the area were quickly diminishing.  We piled into a van with six other people and with our driver and the tour guide.  Our guide spoke very good English and right at the start gave us some wonderful insights into modern day Mayan people and culture.  About half way into the trip we realized that we got the guide we had wanted.  Ivan was part owner of the tour guide company, very well educated, and capable of speaking several different languages.  His stories and discussions about the modern day Maya and the ancient Mayan people were quite captivating.

Chacchoben – It took us around 45 minutes on a pretty decent road to get to the site.  Just before you enter the parking area you can see one of the temples sticking up over the jungle canopy.  I could write pages about what we saw and learned but a couple of things really stick out: 1) the Mayan calendar was complex in a number of ways and was key to tying science, agriculture and religion together; 2) The 52 year cycle in this calendar system spawned a regular rebuilding spree (reflected in the temple construction).

 

More on  our guide – Our guide was maybe in his late thirties.  His father was Mayan and his mother a “matiste” (part mayan, part European).  He is the youngest of seven children and his family lived quite a ways away from the local village.  He started “primary school” at age 7 – which is all that was offered in the area - and then his mother sent him to boarding school which as he put it was a “mixed blessing”.  A curse since he had to be away from his family for so many years and yet a blessing because it allowed him to go to college and get degrees in accounting and business.  His college expenses were paid for by the Nestle company.  They expected him to work for them after he obtained his degree – which he did for three years – but he really just wanted to go “home”. He spent part of his time talking to us about some pretty deep philosophical topics and the Mayan people: satellite TV and happiness, satellite TV and their view of outsiders, the “high” crime rate and chickens.  Too many to recall or tell but all so insightful.  Towards the end of our tour, he stopped along the trail and picked up a sherd – a broken piece of pottery.  He explained how valuable an intact pot or plate is on the black market – hundreds of thousands of dollars.  He then related a story of how his mother used one such plate (not knowing its value) as a platter to hold feed for the chickens.

 Shopping – Cindy purchased a clay Costa Maya Fish tree ornament in the Cost Maya tourist shop area.   

Back On Board – We returned to the ship and ate at the Aqua restaurant where some of our most favorite servers Eugene and Raluca took great care of us.  Frank would regularly meet up in the dark halls of the ship with his “supplier”, Curly, for regular Pepsi fixes.  And somehow, Carol-Lynn would always end up with a drink too.  After dinner we took in a show – the Second City comedy act.  Although this group claims a rich and glorious heritage and past the current players left quite a bit to be desired.  Frank really enjoyed the inflatable woman routine.